Friday, January 18, 2008

One week of underwater safari in Tofo, Mozambique

After Kruger, we boarded a plane from Nelspruit to Inhambane in Mozambique. Mozambique is supposed to be one of the last frontiers in scuba diving, unspoiled beaches and hoards of big critters in the water. We were going to put this to the test!

The dive shop we chose was the one who answered all our questions on internet and were willing to take us crazy motivated divers for three dives a day for the whole week - Diversity Scuba. This is no Thailand liveaboard. We have to launch the boat every dive from the beach, the boat gets pushed into the water by the car, but then we have to push the boat into the water, us, divemasters, and boat crew included. Then it’s a bumpy, initially scary ride into the big blue...



The weather was great, the temperature was hot (mid thirties) and water temp at surface was about 28 centigrades. We hit a few thermoclines around 25-26 degrees into the deep.

Nitrox proved useful on this dive as a lot of dive sites were in the 25-30 meters range. Beginner divers aware, this is no easy diving like Thailand. We are very proud of D who dove all dives! I’m thinking of divemastering at that dive shop one day, just for fun J

And were the critters ever there!!! On our first day, second dive and first deep dive, less than 24 hours after having spotted the leopard in Kruger, we saw at Galeria 1) four manta rays 2) a whale shark (!) 3) fifteen devil rays dancing around at the safety spot.

On the 15 dives that I did, less than five did NOT include any manta ray sightings. Having hit low season right after the holidays, we were the only group of the dive shop (three of us!) with the odd solo person joining our bunch. Visibility was awesome, the reef was pristine, and the fish were plentiful. Of note is the world-famous Manta Reef, which we dove no less than four times. Our last dive (yesterday!) on manta reef finished with four mantas dancing around at 21 meters for an eternity. And we did our own whale-shark safari by swimming with a little juvenile of oh, just 6 meters, as a surface interval between dives. Pretty amazing!!!

One of many mantas that indulging in posing


Little mobula dancing


Mobulas aka devil rays dancing at the surface intervals
Seeing mobulas = there are no sharks (they eat them!)


Mozambican bubbles


Very curious grouper who followed us around


Crocodilefish eye


Praia da Tofo

Friday, January 11, 2008

The big wilderness at Kruger National Park, South Africa

Finally! It’s time for the long-awaited vacation, after almost five months in the Congolese bush. I couldn’t wait anymore! Carefully organized plan since months ago: 1 week doing safari in Kruger Park in South Africa, then 1 week of underwater safari in Tofo, Mozambique. DB and So then continue on to Cape town (she’s going to do Great White diving and I’m missing it!!! Argh!!!)

The departure from Shamwana was quite stressful. All these months, I had been stressed about missing the plane on January 4th, and had all sorts of plan B, plan C, plan Z to make it to Lubumbashi by road, cancel my flight and book another one. What I didn’t count on was that the flight out of Shamwana would be on time and uneventful, but that it would be the stopover in Nairobi that might be problematic because of Kenya’s upheaval post-elections. Thankfully by the time I got there, the airport was quiet, and the airplane was on time. Yes, a strange itinerary, Lubumbashi-Nairobi-Johannesburg – but it was the only ticket that my travel agent could get (and the MSF office could not or did not want me out on Saturday as planned). Everything went well in Nairobi airport aside from my making my handluggage heavier by a few books.

Arrived in Johannesburg, happy to find civilization, a normal toilet, a fluffy bed, and my longtime friends from Chisasibi whom I greeted a day later in the airport. We didn’t explore Joburg much, being afraid of its reputation, and limited ourselves to much shopping at the local East Rand Mall.

Then we flew into Nelspruit and discovered the back country of South Africa. Beautiful green mountains and valleys, fertile fruit country and nature. We hit a freak patch of weather whereby it rained for three days and the mercury stayed around 22-27 degrees centigrade. The guide at our lodge said that normally, this time of year, being summer, temperatures could easily reach a grilling 45 centigrade… but it didn’t, thankfully.

Our lodge was situated in Marloth park, one of the private game reserves located South of Kruger National Park. We were told that there were wild animals around and that we shouldn’t walk alone in the dark at night. Our friendly neighbours were a little ugly, but to the point of being cute: a family of warthogs, mommy, daddy, and three little piggies, were living under the bush chalet right next door to us. They passed by and said hello on a daily basis J. At night, we heard loud cats calling around – apparently servals or leopard.

We had 2 and ½ day safari tour in Kruger National Park, the first day being in the nice tall open vehicles, the next days being from a van as it was raining. Getting out of the lodge would sometime time take time because we’d see all sorts of animals right around the corner from the lodge: kudus (some kind of big antelope), a herd of giraffes who were blocking the road, a bunch of zebras, a large family of impalas.


We were quite lucky for our three days in Kruger. The famous ‘Big Five’ are the game that was prized by hunters of last century: lion, rhino, elephant, leopard, and wild buffalo. These days, the only prize to be brought back are pictures. Safaris are from the road in the comfort of a car, and people are not allowed to open the door or step out of the vehicle. Cameras and binoculars proved handy. We had to wake up at 4h30 am everyday to make sure that we hit the park just before six o’clock. The big cats tend to be active until about 10 am, so morning was the best time to view the animals.

We were extremely lucky and did see all Big Five, an oddity this time of year when the animals do not need to gather at waterpoints, and even stranger given the fact that it rained most of the time, thus only allowing us to see the beasts from the road. It’s very easy to forget that the animals are not tame. But they are accustomed to the vehicles and do not associate it with dangers; it’s a different matter when they see bipeds. One lion appeared afraid of a ranger on a bicycle!

No pictures of rhino, because my camera’s zoom was too weak. But we sure saw it!

In Arabic: "zarafah", that which walks gracefully and rapidly


Un éléphant qui se balançait...


Can you see the thirsty elephant?


Careless lion not interested in bipeds in a vehicle


Wild buffalos on the road causing traffic block


Nile crocodile sunbasking


Carefree hyena going from one side of the road to get its food to the other side to eat it


Young impala males fighting


Beautiful, rainy Kruger scenery


Unhurried kudu on the bridge


Spotted one hiding carefully next to the road


Friends in Kruger!


Warthog family (Akuna Matata!)


Guinea fowl aka roadkill


Zebras are sociable. They hang out with impalas and kudus because they can share the same grass, just eating it at a different height. I was told I'm as gregarious as a zebra :)